Documentation -- Museum of Contemporary Art, Sydney -- Architect Marshall

Preparation - hot wire machine: EPS blue foam (or yellow) is the only type of foams that can be use with hot wire machines in the Squarehouse, other foams will produce toxic fumes or other by-products while cutting with hot wire machines

Preparation - hot wire machine: tools that are needed for cutting nice, clean and straight lines (facades): metal square, ruler, metal guard, marker, EPS blue foam

tools for placing each piece together: blade, clear tapes

Preparation - wrapping jigs

Preparation - jigs are held in places with tapes tightly wrapped around each piece, making sure each piece is attached with no gap in between - otherwise an unexpected facade will form

Techniques I used: forming the cubes upside down: the centre jigs will subtract the void; by having the centre pieces shorter than the sides, the bottom of the cube will be formed at the top of the jig (otherwise the centre jigs have nothing to attach to, by doing it upside down, the centre jig can be attached to the bottom of the entire jig, as well as ensures the accurate of the measurements attended)

Preparation - Comparison: the jig for the shape displayed on the laptop screen 

Preparation - Overall view of the whole preparation process

Casting - tools and materials involved: white hydrocal, mixing bucket, jibs, hammer and blades (in case it stuck), paper bag (for cleaning reason), black oxide, tape (in case of leakages), epoxy glue

Casting - white hydrocal is chose for its strength and it time efficiency (plaster is too fragile for the size I am making)

Casting - epoxy glue: the same amount of glue from each tube will need to be mixed properly for it to work

Casting - white bucket for white hydrocal/black container for dark grey hydrocal (white hydrocal mixes with black oxide)

Casting - jogs filled with hydrocal (after pouring)

Removal of the first jig - the central pieces are stuck, blades and rules are used to help with the process of removal

note: hydrocal expands (as well as it heats up) while drying, therefore, central part of each jig can be pressed and stuck - which also means that during the process of drying, the overall shape of the jig can be changed (expanded), therefore, using clamps to secure the shape of the jig can be helpful. 
However, based on the size of the jig, the thickness of each little pieces and the way I wrapped each piece, clamps did not need to be involved for this model 

Removal of the first jig - this is how this part of the model turned out to be after removing the jig - sides and some facades turned out to be rough (which is expected), sanding will take place after removing all the jigs 

Removal of the first jig - this part of the model comparing to the corresponding part in my sketchup model (highlighted in blue)

Sanding - the main goal for each block is to be smooth, however, not to an extreme as the original building is also concrete finishing

Sanding - the end result of this block: rough edges are sanded down to smooth (also for safety reasons), some facades are also smoothed out for an even finishing

Removal of the second jig - the same process as before

Removal of the second jig - this part of the model comparing to the corresponding part in my sketchup model (highlighted in blue) - without sanding

Sanding - the end result of this block

Removal of the third jig - the same process as before

Removal of the third jig - this part of the model comparing to the corresponding part in my sketchup model (highlighted in blue) - without sanding

Sanding - the end result of this block

Removal of the forth jig - the same process as before

Removal of the forth jig - the same process as before: this block is a lot trickier as there is an extra piece at the bottom plate subtracting (is so this hydrocal block can insert onto the plastic part and make the whole model more stable) - because of that extra piece, the inside of this jig is not completely tight, so there is this very fine layer of hydrocal went into the gap in between the bottom and the central part

Removal of the forth jig - the extra piece at the bottom plate subtracting 

Removal of the forth jig - this part of the model comparing to the corresponding part in my sketchup model (highlighted in blue) - without sanding

Removal of the fifth jig - the same process as before

Removal of the fifth jig - this part of the model comparing to the corresponding part in my sketchup model (highlighted in blue) - without sanding

Sanding - the end result of this block

Removal of the sixth jig - the same process as before

Sanding - the end result of this block

Assembly of the model - putting each part of the hydrocal blocks with the plastic parts (made with clear PVC sheets and cut with blades)

note: at the stage I decided to keep each part individually and not glue them together, just so I could go through the process of putting each part of the model together and understand how this whole thing is coming together

Assembly of the model - the middle part that extends out on the bottom PVC part is an addition to the actual MCA, as that extended part is put in by me for further supports of the upper levels (hydrocal parts) and a well balanced model that can just 'free-stand' on its own 

Assembly of the model - another major weight is added onto the model: further examining the purpose of that extended bottom wall is the reason how this model is supported

Assembly of the model - another major weight is added forming level 2 of the model (in-between 'glazing' made with clear PVC sheet is also added as I assemble higher levels)

Assembly of the model - the final pieces are added, which also proved that only one extra support is needed and the parts can balance each other out with being glued together